by: Anne Braly
Louisville’s old East Market district has changed dramatically throughout the city’s timeline. In the mid-1800s, it was a city park named Woodland Gardens, a beautiful area frequented by German immigrants and others new to the city. It was also the area of town where, in the 1880s, tradesmen made the district home, and stockyards, shops, produce markets and tanners lined the streets.
In other words, East Market Street and the immediate surrounding area was a bustling center of Louisville commerce. These businesses thrived in the area through the early 1900s.
Then, things went south. Businesses closed and “white flight” took residents to areas outside of town, leaving businesses boarded up. The heydays of the late 1800s were nothing but stories of better days.
Buildings began to wear down after many years of use. The city made historic revitalization efforts to preserve the area’s character but those efforts were not enough to turn the tide. Businesses began to move out as buildings deteriorated. The once-thriving area lost much of its importance to the city’s economy. In fact, the neighborhood was, as were many inner-city neighborhoods, federally classified as a “distressed area.”
But what’s old is new again, thanks to entrepreneurs and developers who have moved back into the area and created a new neighborhood called NuLu, a large, walkable area about five city blocks long and three blocks wide.
With the recent opening of Tempo by Hilton (hilton.com), the hotel has become the newest to commit to restoring the old East Market into the thriving area it once was.
“When we opened Tempo by Hilton in NuLu, it was just the third Tempo in the world, joining locations in Times Square and Nashville,” says Bert Le Roux, general manager of Tempo’s NuLu location. “The upbeat and vibrant NuLu neighborhood was the perfect fit for this hotel, which is designed to meet the needs of modern travelers who want to maintain their rhythm despite being constantly on the go. With lively settings for social gatherings and events, Tempo fits perfectly into the NuLu neighborhood.”
So after a good night’s sleep, you may wonder where to go and what to eat?
A Day in NuLu
Pick up a cup of coffee and a Danish at Moonstone Bar + Cafe located in Tempo’s lobby. It’s a convenient coffee shop with seating if you wish, or a door to the outside if you want to get on your way by foot or by car to explore the sights around NuLu.
For starters, Louisville is a leg of the famous Kentucky Bourbon Trail, and directly across the street from Tempo is Rabbit Hole, a relatively new distillery that released its first bottle of bourbon in 2016. The distillery produces four bourbons that bourbon enthusiasts can taste in the bar at the conclusion of a tour that tells the story of owner Kaveh Zamanian who describes his journey into the world of bourbons as “going down a rabbit hole.” Thus, the name of the distillery, For reservations, visit rabbitholedistillery.com.
Angel’s Envy is another NuLu bourbon with a strong following of craft bourbon lovers. It opened in 2016 in a large brick building along the historic Whiskey Row and is open for tours where visitors can learn about the bourbon’s unique “secondary finishing” process and finish in a tasting room where guests can taste what they’ve seen produced and bottled. Take home a bottle from the large gift shop on the ground level. For reservations and tour information, log onto angelsenvy.com.
Continuing your day, take a walking tour through Louisville’s past and its architectural history. Guides will take you through streets lined with handsome mansions that transport visitors back into the Gilded Age. Louisville Historic Tours offers several experiences from which to choose, including a walking ghost tour of spirits who still roam the streets and houses of Old Louisville. Visit louisvillehistorictours.com for more information.
NuLu has emerged as not only a place for bourbon but also an art district with a number of galleries,museums, and specialty stores. Of note are Six Sisters Boutique, Bourbon Barrel Foods, KMAC Contemporary Art Museum, the Muhammed Ali Center, and the Louisville Slugger Museum and Factory.
After a morning of bourbons, you may need something to sop up the spirits or refuel after an afternoon of walking.
“Over the past few years, NuLu’s dining scene has flourished, becoming a tapestry of culinary innovation and tradition,” says Stacey Yates, Chief Marketing Officer for Louisville Tourism (gotolouisville.com), citing the opening of notable establishments like Nami Modern Korean Steakhouse, the brainchild of Chef Edward Lee, who has introduced elevated Korean cuisine to the area, earning accolades such as topping USA Today’s Best Restaurants list in 2024. Check it out at nami-restaurant.com.
“This dynamic mix of innovative newcomers and established favorites has solidified NuLu as a premier dining destination, attracting both Louisville residents and visitors alike. Among the pioneers, Mayan Café (themayancafe.com) has been a cornerstone of the neighborhood, championing farm-to-table dining long before it became a national movement,” Yates adds. “Its dedication to authentic Mayan flavors and locally sourced ingredients helped set the tone for NuLu’s culinary evolution, paving the way for the vibrant food scene we see today.
Here are some more creative dining options.
- No trip to Louisville is complete without visiting The Brown Hotel’s J. Graham’s Cafe and indulging in the “sandwich” that made it famous throughout the world: The Hot Brown. It’s a warm, cheesy, gooey mess of deliciousness. There’s a petite size, but why? Go ahead and dig in. Order the large Hot Brown and, while you’re at it, a side of fried okra. Check out the menu at brownhotel.com.
- One of the newest, and possibly the best Reubens in NuLu can be had at Morning Fork, a breakfast/lunch eatery in the heart of the neighborhood that transitions into Fork & Barrel at dinnertime. Also, the Brussels sprouts salad is outstanding. Brunch is offered daily Wednesday through Sunday (closed Monday and Tuesday), and theme brunches, such as a Harry Potter brunch in April and Easter brunch April 20th, are popular. Reservations for all meals and brunches are recommended. Log onto morningforklouisville.com.
- Look no further than the rooftop at Tempo at High Stakes Grill for an outstanding dinner with a commanding view of NuLu and the surrounding area. It’s known for its steaks and seafood. The Brown Butter-Honey Glazed Salmon with hollandaise is a best bet, as are the braised short ribs with baby Yukon potatoes and pearl onions. The grill also has a remarkable selection in wines. Reservations are appreciated: highstakesgrill.com.
- For a change of taste, MoonDog Cafe is known for its Vietnamese cuisine with a modern vibe, such as the Hot Chicken banh mi, pho-spiced french fries. bowls, such as the Egg Roll Bowl, and San Francisco-style garlic noodles. MoonDog’s decor is new and exciting, making for a colorful, delicious dinner. Find MoonDog on Facebook and Instagram.
- Like your Bloody Mary’s cold and chilaquiles hot? Brunch at The Silver Dollar is what you need on a lazy Saturday morning. This place is where East meets West in a yummy shootout between spicy chili and homespun biscuits and gravy. Or, order your chili with cheese on hashbrowns. That’ll cure what ails you. Check out the menu at whiskeybythedrink.com.
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